Death week continued. The MiddleGeorges have survived the first four nights of death week and we find ourselves at the night of our last supper. I have been living the week under strict advise of my lawyer, from food to drink, to the next stops on or adventure, he was in charge. All I could do was follow his lead. So as directed by Lawyer Schmank we made reservations for a tasting menu at Castagna.
I have never eaten at Castagna, I have only heard stories of the exciting meals. I have eaten in the Cafe, but that is like a regular restaurant. I look back on the history of my friendship, I recall a time before we were friends and I have only heard things about this mysterious culinary instructor. I remember sitting at the bar in Cafe Castagna with the Baldschwabs and spotting Schmank running around in the kitchen of Castagna. "Fucking stage." Eventually my Lawyer and I have become buddies and I have learned that not only has he staged at Castagna but he also spent a period of his life staging at WD-50 in NYC under Wylie Dufresne, and alongside the chef of Castagna, Justin Woodward. I was half dead (dyingfrom death week 2012) but excited to indulge in the tasting menu, along with the insider knowledge I would get from my lawyer. So again, as directed by my lawyer, I got somewhat dressed up, and met up with Schmank, who was looking dapper himself with a tie, blazer, and fur covered shoes, and we were off to our last supper of Death Week 2012.
We have the dining room to ourselves, for now, and after we finish our first bourbon beverage I am back to life and ready to be killed again with food. Chef Justin comes out and greets us and I watch as he and MiddleGeorge make funnies.
We will have the 10 course tasting menu with wine parings please. Then the snacks begin.
A ball of buttermilk puff filled with grapefruit roe arrives on a piece of slate. Oh shit this is going to be fun! This little poof ball was stuffed with little caviar like balls of grapefruit juice.
Then came a couple pieces of smoked guanciale placed into a serving vessel of a charred log. We agreed that we could both sit on the couch and eat these all day erryday.
Next we were presented with a bowl of translucent potato chips (I assumed to be potato starch) and a squirt of BBQ purée sitting atop a stone. This stone may or may not have been licked clean by somebody. But we also may or may not have scratched the rock with a butter knife to make it look like nobody actually licked it. Snacks keep arriving, and we get to munch on crispy puffed beef tendons dusted in vinegar powder and topped with rosemary flowers.
These delicious little chicharone type tendons almost melt as they touch your tongue. I am having a lot of fun right now. More food comes out on slates, not plates.
Next course lands and is apple infused with parsley water with lemon balm and yogurt. Now in most restaurants, people don't take pictures of the rolls. But you kinda have to when you taste the texture of these house rye rolls with lardo, churns butter, and sprinkled with brown butter solids.
As I use the restroom, I am instructed my my advisor to glance at the lights in the bathroom. Legend has it that the lights pulse as the immersion circulators pump in the kithchen. And the lights are pulsing! Now we are actually finished with snacks and beginning our courses.
Schmank is excited by the incoming green almonds, and we dive into them with bay shrimp, eucalyptus and lime. I have never had green almonds before, and they are mom and crazy interesting as their insides are a translucent jelly of goodness.
Next up is dungeness crab with crab head gelee. So I grew up in Hawaii in a Filipino family, and when we eat crab, we dump rice into the yellow guts of the crap to sop up all the goodness. At first bite, I decided that this dish needed to be eaten slowly and savor every last bit of culinary boner this gelee of crab brains and guts was giving me. As I took my second bite, I looked over as Schmank frowned with sadness that he had inhaled his crab course. Eat your veggies!
Three textures of cauliflower with a hidden gem of an oyster. As we dove into our next culinary delight of spring vegetables with cured beef
my lawyer exclaims "this dish is like eating a forest". Then came another mind blowing mouth experience in the shape of the most perfectly cooked piece of halibut ever to enter my mouth hole...
along with potatoes in the shape of cylinders and the bright color of saffron (which I told chef I am definitely going to steal). Oh, hey, theres a meat course!
Ribeye with Beets a la Plancha. Thank Jeebus, its time for desserts...
Lemon Curd with meringue and Hefeweizen. More dessert,
Goat Milk Ice Cream, Caramel, and Dried Cream. Last course arrives and its a chocolate Hockey puck that oozes when your fork touches it.
Nom. oh, then there were gummy bears made of fruits and chocolate dusty balls.
"I need a break, i want to run a marathon" Im Sooooo Fuuulll"
i didnt die, but i was nearly killed by food fun. after 4 years of having this job of traveling, this was my first time experienceing the adventure through a tasting menu at Castagna. It only happened because i was under the wise advise of a wise, wise, attorney. if you are ever in portland and have a few hundred bucks to blow on food adventures that your work WILL NOT pay for... you need to eat this. Since Matt Lightner left as the chef, all we read about Castagna is that Justin Woodward is continuing and filling Matt's shoes... I have to say that Chef Justin is ballin outta contro with skills and passion that shine through in amazing perfection.
Im So Full
Thanks Schmanks. Bee Tee Dubs... what is your favorite island?